June 2003 | Archive

Pittsburgh's best restaurants
As chosen by Pittsburgh Magazine's Blue Ribbon Committee. By Ann Haigh

Delicious Design: Soba
Finalists: Bossa Nova, La Strada

Following an electrical fire, Soba has emerged with a stunning redesign by talented architect Riva Sloan (Axis Architectural Studio, New Jersey). Muted sage, sable and tawny tones replace the former raucous raspberry paint on the restaurant’s Ellsworth Avenue facade. Inside, the former heavy-handed, dark and busy décor yields to more natural light and a sophisticated aesthetic.

An appealing reconfiguration of space throughout adds flow and flair. The popular first-floor bar steps sideways to occupy an addition built over the former outdoor patio. It’s now larger, with comfortable bar and banquette seating. Ultra-smart Italian lighting fixtures add panache, and glass doors open up the space to the street. Patio dining, graced with heaters, rises to the rooftop above.

Management officially describes the interior as “an urban/
modern Zen garden.” Sloan says the design concept is modern Asian (without being literal), more minimalist than before (though not totally stripped down). At any rate, it’s visually exciting, with a two-story waterfall coursing sheerly down a dark slate wall. Nearby, glass-railed stairs seem to float airily between levels.

Elsewhere, sensuous materials—river rock, zebra wood, patterned cork flooring, bamboo—evoke exotic climes. Jim Ladner’s handsome hand-carved maple bar and doors on the second floor join a myriad of other wonderful work by such local artists as Kathleen Mulcahey, Laurie Mancuso and Bill Miller.

That all this design wizardry takes place in a space converted from an old Victorian building makes the award doubly deserved.

Best Casual Restaurant: Dish Osteria and Bar
Runners-up: Franco’s Trattoria, Tessaro’s
Finalists: Orient Kitchen, Sushi Kim

Michele and Cindy Savoia have created a great deal of buzz with Dish, their small South Side bistro. “I’m grateful that people understand my concept,” says Michele. “They tell me, ‘Thank you for being here!’”

According to this magnetic, pony-tailed restaurateur, success results from getting all the right ingredients together, just like a recipe: good food, a fun clientele, service by nice people and an appealing, relaxed atmosphere—including soft lighting and trendy music, even upbeat Brazilian salsa.

But Dish also has an elusive extra something, a unique personality that generates distinct urban energy. Michele calls it a “place of reunion.” People stop by for a drink at the bar, he explains, then stay on for dinner, then move back to the bar to socialize. “It’s a total experience that makes people feel happy.”

And the kitchen cooks until midnight! Young chef Nathan Sturm solidly executes, and Michele can’t stay away from his Sicilian roots—making caponata from scratch, oven-roasting his peppers, marinating assorted olives in celery, mint, oregano and red wine vinegar. He takes risks with such odd-to-Pittsburgh items as
grilled fresh sardines with caramelized onions, orange and
fennel salad and bottarga (dried fish roe) shaved over spaghetti.
But as the steady flow of customers confirms, he mainly lands sharply on the mark.

Best Lunch: (tie) Café Zinho, Le Pommier
Runner-up: Café at the Frick
Finalists: Hyeholde, Palomino

Since the day it opened, zany Café Zinho has been the East End’s casual meal-stop of choice. Owned by fine-dining Baum Vivant’s Toni and Becky Pais, the neighborhood eatery sports shabby-chic décor, a relaxed atmosphere and a spunky a la carte menu of seasonal soups, salads, sandwiches, entrees and desserts.
A trio of young chefs—Abdel Kader Khila, Alex Kastronis and Karl Stoehr—is in charge. But Toni devises the menu and closely oversees prep each morning in Baum Vivant’s kitchen. “The crew’s incredible,” says Becky. “And the food the Café’s turning out is phenomenal!”

Menu stand-bys include roasted garlic and tomato bisque, crostini, green olive hummus, various wraps and a large selection of vegetarian fare. Toni’s also now running frogs’ legs, escargots, oyster fritters and his version of macaroni and cheese—seashells stuffed with ricotta, two other cheeses and smoked salmon, topped with tomato vodka cream sauce, then baked.

Business here buzzes all year round. There’s ample opportunity for cool attire, air-kissing and schmoozing. In summer, the action spills out onto the sidewalk tables for major people-watching. Customers appreciate Zinho’s BYOB policy, says Toni. Remember also that it’s cash only for your meal.

Light-hearted and delicious, a leisurely lunch sipping wine at Le Pommier lets your spirit glide to a casual cafe in the French countryside. It’s a small affair, with tables limited to the first floor front dining room and, in warm weather, the outside sidewalk café. Chef/owner Christine Dauber presides, as she has done with stylish professionalism for 19 years. Jeremy Carlisle, an American fluent in French and things Gallic, manages the dining room, adding just the right touch of Euro-style. And chef Mark Collins holds his forte in the kitchen.

The menu changes quarterly with the seasons, as well as daily in market-based selections of soups, savory tarts, salads, sandwiches, fish and other main course specials. Country pâté, with cornichons and whole-grain mustard, is a staple, along with: snails poached in Normandy cider, with garlic toast; ravioli stuffed with Boursin cheese and sun-dried tomatoes; and crepes stuffed with hazelnut praline pastry cream, served with pineapple-orange sauce.

Regulars—local business people, downtown professionals, even day-trippers from Uniontown—populate this midday meal. Some may be surprised at the restaurant’s refurbishing, which introduces a cheerful new color scheme: red, yellow and apricot. Le Pommier keeps fresh as always. Next Page