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Munch goes back to Dish

Friday, February 23, 2001

By Munch

Well, the "secret" is out.

And that's not all.

Dish, the new osteria on the South Side, has been so busy that one night early last week, they were out of, except for one Chianti, red wine.

And an osteria, in Tuscany, is a wine bar.

"I never thought I'd sell so much wine," the owner was apologizing to a couple seated near Munch.

But there's no reason to apologize. Just bring a pint of Sierra Nevada pale ale for Munch, and a glass of the Chianti for Munch's date, and give us a just little more time to figure out what wonderful morsels to order from the food menu.

Dish isn't really a secret.

You Munch regulars read it here first way back in October, right after Pittsburgh's first-ever osteria opened.

That was way before they got the kitchen up and running, but Munch already had a good feelings about this chic renovated, off-the-beaten-track corner tavern.

Now that Dish has fed them, those feelings have blossomed into love.

Munch will never forget the first meal there, shared with three best friends. We literally ordered the entire menu, save for, due to a shrimp allergy, the gamberi sauteed in garlic and olive oil.

It wasn't difficult, not just because the menu was smaller at the start, but also because the portions are small -- Spanish tapas-style items meant to go down easily with drinks and friends.

We chomped and chatted as we shared our way through the olives (in an intoxicating homemade marinade), the bruschetta (bread toasted with tomatoes, basil, garlic and olive oil), a cheese and sausage plate, Sicilian-style meatballs, roasted sweet peppers, lentils and sausage casserole, pasta e fagioli soup, grilled calamari, and mussels in white wine, garlic, tomatoes and fresh herbs. The plates ranged in price from $2.50 to $6.50 and each one held enough to share.

We kept the wine and beer coming, too.

It was a fabulous feast.

And Dish hasn't disappointed since.

Last week, two of us started with tapas (bruschetta and grilled calamari) but expanded our horizons to the menu's second page to try two entrees, a mushroom pasta dish in an unusual brown sauce, and one of the night's specials, which was a tuna steak all juicy in an even more wonderful sweet balsamic vinegar sauce with spinach on the side.

We didn't have room to foray into the final frontier -- the desserts, which include the Italian flan called panna cotta.

Again, it was fabulous.

So fabulous, in fact, that Munch rather wishes the place were more secret. Or, at least, just up the street from home.

Even on a Monday night, several of the tables were occupied, and the drinkers lined the bar, which normally is fabulously stocked with great wine selections. lots of beers and more.

If you go, don't expect TVs or video games -- Dish is designed to be an adult haven, where people can actually talk to each other. It's dark and sophisticated, but candlelit and cozy and comfortable.

We needed a place like this.

As another Dish fan recently raved, "Long live dinners after 9 p.m.!"

This is what Munch told him, and it goes for you too:

Just don't tell anyone.


Dish is at 128 S. 17th St., South Side (412-390-2012). Hours are 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Mon.-Sat. The kitchen is open until 11:30 or midnight on weekdays and until 1 a.m. Fri.-Sat.



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